Royal Shrovetide Football

What to expect

At 2pm on Shrove Tuesday and again on Ash Wednesday, a guest 'turner-up' throws the ball from a plinth on the Shaw Croft car park, and the game begins. Two sides take part: the Up'ards and the Down'ards, with your team traditionally decided by which side of the town you were born on. The ball is rarely kicked. Instead it inches through the streets, fields and river inside the 'hug', a heaving scrum that can involve hundreds of people. A goal is scored by tapping the ball three times on your side's millstone. If a goal comes before 5pm a new ball is turned up; after 5pm play ends for the day, and the game can run until 10pm. Shops and pubs board up their windows, and the whole town hums.

The story behind it

Ashbourne has been playing its Shrovetide game since at least the 1600s, making it one of the best-known survivors of the rough-and-tumble mob football once common across England on Shrove Tuesday. Many towns gave up the custom as streets filled with traffic and shopfronts, but Ashbourne held on, and the 'Royal' in the name reflects royal connections over the years: past turner-ups have included the then Prince Charles. For local families the game is a matter of deep pride, with memories, rivalries and treasured hand-painted balls passed down through generations. It remains a community event first and a spectacle second.

Getting there and home

Ashbourne has no railway station. Derby is the most practical rail gateway, with buses running on to Ashbourne; check the timetable for return times, as the game can run late into the evening. Driving is possible but parking is very tight on match days, and the traditional start point is itself a car park, so arrive early and expect busy roads. Stay overnight in Ashbourne or the surrounding Peak District villages if you want to catch both days without a long drive in the dark.

Watching, taking part and tips

Spectators are welcome, but keep a sensible distance from the hug: it can change direction suddenly and sweep through gardens, car parks and even the Henmore Brook. Cemeteries, churchyards and memorial gardens are out of bounds. Follow instructions from marshals, medical staff and police at all times. Wear sturdy boots and clothes you do not mind getting muddy, and bring warm layers, as February afternoons are cold. Children can enjoy the atmosphere, especially around the turn-up, but keep them well back once play is under way.

Where to watch

Ashbourne’s ball is made specially for the occasion and decorated for the person chosen to turn it up. The town council describes stout cowhide, hemp stitching and a filling of cork shavings, which helps it float when play reaches the river. The painted images reflect the turner-up’s life and interests, so if you get a look before the throw, take in the details — the paintwork is unlikely to stay pristine once the game gets going.

The council also explains that whoever scores can have the ball repainted to mark the goal, so it lives on in a household rather than its story ending at the millstone. You don’t need to get anywhere near the middle of the hug to appreciate what it means. Look at official pre-game pictures or displays, and listen for the turner-up’s introduction. It helps explain the pride wrapped up in a single object that most spectators may not see for long stretches at a time.

Taking part

Discover Ashbourne puts it plainly in its visitor information: this is the town’s own game, and visitors are asked to keep out of the way. It also warns that many shops, roads and car parks close, so your usual shopping-day routine won’t work at Shrovetide. Sort out food, a meeting place and your journey home before the ball is turned up, rather than hoping the nearest open door will offer a warm refuge when play swings your way.

The church’s account adds that private property must be respected and that instructions from medical staff, marshals and police must be followed. Don’t chase the action through an entrance just because a player has gone that way. If the hug heads towards you, give it room and follow official directions rather than clinging to a camera spot. On a first visit, a short spell watching from outside the moving crowd may be plenty. Nobody expects you to follow across fields or streams, and heading home before the latest possible finish is perfectly sensible.

Make a day of it nearby

St Oswald’s Church is a landmark for a quieter visit away from active play. The parish describes an ancient Grade I building on School Lane with a strong musical tradition. Check public opening and any services on the day, and remember a church visit is separate from the game: places of worship and their grounds aren’t a shortcut for spectators or an extension of the pitch.

Tissington Hall is another local heritage idea, better saved for a return trip later in the year. Its official public-tour page lists selected opening dates in the warmer months, so don’t count on a February visit — check the new calendar or ask before making a special journey. Both work best as separate parts of a longer stay, with Ashbourne’s match-day closures planned around separately. If you only have one day, make seeing the turn-up and getting a feel for the town’s preparations your priority, rather than trying to squeeze a country-house tour into an unpredictable afternoon of moving play.

Questions people ask

Where it is

Map pin shows the approximate area where the event happens. Open in OpenStreetMap ↗

Go straight to the source

Independent research. The organiser’s own information always wins — we have not visited or tested the journeys.

• Visit Peak District event listing ↗
• Time Out: in pictures, 2026 game ↗
• Ashbourne Town Council: ball-making and local history ↗
• Discover Ashbourne: visitor expectations and closures ↗
• Ashbourne Group of Churches: the game and respect for property ↗
• Ashbourne Group of Churches: St Oswald’s ↗
• Tissington Hall: public visiting calendar ↗